Andy's Tokyo City Guide

Also known as “Electric Town” for its profusion of electronics shops, this neighbourhood is the centre of geek or “Otaku” culture in Tokyo. As such it’s a big draw for manga and computer game fans. Check out the 6 story Mandarake comic book and collectibles store while you’re there. First time visitors find it particularly engaging after dark, when the streets light up with dozens of illuminated screens, giving it a “time square” for geek’s feel. I personally find Akihabara a little overwhelming and tacky, so would probably nudge you in the direction of Nakano Broadway instead. 

North of Akihabara, this is one of the older neighbourhoods in Tokyo, and attracts many tourists to the beautiful Senso-Ji shrine. It’s a great place to spot people wearing traditional Kimonos, which locals (and some tourists) will rent for photo ops. The area is especially famous for its kitchenware. Check out the amazing Kanaya brush shop if you’re in the area (random I know).

Bordering onto Harajuku, I’m not entirely sure where one stops and the other starts. However this is my favourite neighbourhood for shopping, with some really interesting designer clothing brands. It’s also home to the wonderful Nezu Museum, a must visit for anybody interested in art, architecture and culture. If you happen to like your Jazz, Blue Note Tokyo might also be worth checking out, depending who’s on.

If I lived in Tokyo, I’d probably choose to live somewhere between Ebisu, Daikanyama and Naka-Meguro. Ebisu is a lively neighbourhood full of great cafes, restaurants and bars. Here you can find Bar Martha, my favourite Japanese listening bar. Daikanyama is a little more upmarket, and home to Daikanyama T-Site, possibly the best bookshop in the world. The backstreets around here are full of lovely little boutique clothing brands if you're looking to get your Japanese denim or Gorpcore fix. 

Upmarket Ginza is full of superstores and international brands. While it’s not my favourite place to visit, it has some of the best cocktail bars and Sushi restaurants in town, including the likes of Bar High Five and Sushi Saito. It’s also home to the flagship Muji store as well as a new TSUTAYA bookstore dedicated to art. So plan at least one night out here. 

This neighbourhood is the epicentre of teen culture and a really fun place to wander around on a Sunday. While most people flock to Takeshita Dori, I find it a little too much like Camden Market for my liking, preferring the slightly more upmarket feel of Cat Street and its surroundings. Giant fluffy pancakes are all the rage here, so expect to see hour-long queues outside the latest instagram driven cafe. It’s also a great place to get softserve and other sweet treats, if that’s your thing. 

Discover the hidden gems of Tokyo's Ginza district, from impressive department stores to upscale boutiques and traditional Japanese eateries.

Discover the eclectic charm of Tokyo’s Harajuku and Aoyama districts, where traditional and modern collide, and experience the city like a local.

Discover the charming streets of Kanda, a historic Tokyo neighbourhood that's home to universities, bookshops and intellectual hideaways.

Discover the rich financial history and modern charm of Tokyo's Nihonbashi district, a hub of commerce and culture.

Explore the charming streets of Ryogoku and Kuramae, Tokyo's historic districts, discover traditional Japanese culture, sumo wrestling and more!

Yanaka moves at a different pace from much of Tokyo. As the city has changed around it, Yanaka has retained...

There are a bunch of Alice in Wonderland themed restaurants in Tokyo, decked out in a variety of styles. The food isn’t great, unless you like luncheon meat laid out in the shape of the March Hare, but the surroundings are definitely one of a kind. If you’re not sure about visiting a maid cafe, this may be a good “safe bet”.

In a residential area on the outskirts of Tokyo you’ll find this charming neighbourhood with several bonsai nurseries you can walk around. If you’re interested in learning more about this art form, there is also a museum dedicated to the practice. It’s a bit of a trek so probably not one for your first Tokyo visit, unless you happen to be a massive bonsai fan. But it does make a lovely escape from the city. 

TeamLab, my favourite Japanese Interactive Art Collective, has outdone itself with this multi-room digital art museum. Countless rooms full of projection mapped interactive goodness. This place is HUGE so wear sturdy shoes and plan to spend at least two hours here. Planets by TeamLab is also super popular, but it looks like it skews slightly more towards children, so I’d probably stick with Borderless. As with the Ghibli museum, advance booking is essential. 

There are a bunch of indoor climbing gyms in Tokyo, but none are quite like B-Pump, a neon bouldering wall in the heart of Akihabara. Worth a trip for visiting climbers wanting to stretch their arms and legs after a long haul flight. 

You’ll see convenience stores  (Konbini) like Family Mart, Lawson and 7-eleven on almost every street corner. They’re the best place to withdraw cash. While you're there, make sure you pick up a Tamago Sando (Japanese Egg Sandwich), if only to debate which brand makes the best one.

You’ll find some amazing food halls in the basements of upmarket department stores like Isetan, Ginza Six and Tokyu Department Store. Think Selfredges food hall, but full of bento boxes, picture-perfect fruit sandwiches, onigiri rice balls and amazing baked goods. These are great places to pick up lunch for your Shinkansen ride to the country, or just a hotel room picnic if you;re feeling lazy. 

If you’ve got money to spend, this beautiful high-end Ryokan style hotel is the place to stay. Think minimal rooms with lots of natural fibres and blonde wood. Attracts an international crowd of fund managers, exited founders and Google execs, if that’s your kind of vibe.

At the other end of the spectrum to the Aman is the APA chain of budget business hotels. The larger hotels have a top floor sento, which is a great way of soaking away the aches of the day before bed. The larger hotels also do a really nice buffet breakfast of miso soup and cured fish (something I personally love, but can be an acquired taste). The rooms are small and basic, with little if any design flair. The chain is known for its outspoken founder and, um, unusual in room entertainment. So maybe put a lock on the TV if you’re travelling with children.

The Bed & Art Project has two micro-hotels in Tokyo; one in Keonji and the other in Akihabara. Both hotels are really multi-room apartments, with each room decorated by a different local artist. Run by an arts collective, a share of the profits for each booking goes to the artists that decorated the room. While I’ve not stayed there myself, you get the sense that staying here is like staying with some cool designer friends, so if you’re looking for an AirBnB alternative, this would be a good pick.

Another somewhat strange concept, loosely based around the Manga Kissa, Bed and Book is a bookshop you can sleep in. I’ve not stayed here myself either, but find the idea rather intriguing..

This slightly unusual concept from the team behind Nine Hours, combines a Finnish sauna with an upmarket, designer capsule hotel. The place looks beautiful, so I’d be tempted to give it a try for a single. Especially if you’ve missed the last train home after a night on the town in Ebisu, and it’s cheaper than getting a taxi home.

I really love the Hoshinoya brand. Their hotels have a similar vibe to Aman, but are Japanese owned (rather than Russian, cia Switzerland). So think beautiful lighting and amazing design mixing Japanese and mid-century modern tropes.

This is my favourite museum in Tokyo, and it's somewhere I visit every trip. The building itself is worth the visit alone. However it’s the beautifully orchestrated, and ever changing exhibitions, highlighting Japan’s vibrant design culture, that keeps me coming back time and again.

If you’re visiting Harajuku at the weekend, it’s worth dropping by this shrine.

A contemporary art museum at the top of a skyscraper in Roppongi, with a good gallery shop. I don’t think it has much of a permanent collection, so check out the current exhibit before going.

Big contemporary art museum, akin to MOMA. Impressive building, great gift shop. It’s good for big travelling exhibitions, so check what’s on first. Near 21_21 Design Sight, so you can do both in a single afternoon.

This is an absolutely stunning building, set in an upmarket neighbourhood of fancy homes and designer boutiques. The museum has a great collection of ancient Japanese sculptures and artworks, and one of the best gardens in Tokyo. After 21_21 Design Sight, this is my favourite Tokyo museum. If you’re looking for a bite to eat afterwards, nip over the road to the wonderful Down the Stairs cafe.

A cool contemporary art gallery. A little out of town, but worth the trek if you’re looking for something a bit more avant garde.

Access to this reservation-only cocktail bar in Ebisu is hidden behind a bank of lockers. I didn’t read the instructions the first time I visited so ended up wandering around the building lost, until a local shop keeper took pity on me and showed me the secret entrance. Inside you’ll find a warm, beautifully lit space. I have to admit that it doesn’t feel especially Japanese, so you could be in a cocktail bar in any major city in the world. A very lovely cocktail bar that is.

This bar is probably the most stylish bar in Golden Gai, and with three floors, also one of the largest. So maybe start your night here, before checking out the many unique bars in this area, the majority of which only seat a handful of people at any one time.

If you’re looking for the canonical Tokyo bar experience, then it’s probably a toss up between here and Bar High Five. Think immaculately tailored bar staff, meticulously shaving ice diamonds while preparing your perfect drink based on your preferences (i.e. no menus). This bar has the added benefit of being on the 50 best list.

Bar Martha is one of a number of “listening bars” in Tokyo. So go here with a few friends, order some Japanese Whiskey, and enjoy the eclectic mix of vinyl music the local taste makers will select for your listening pleasure. Just remember not to talk too loudly, or you may be asked to leave. This place has received a bunch of 1 star reviews for tourists as a result, which helps keep the idiots out.

While not the most atmospheric of venues, this whisky specialist does amazing tastings flights for those interested in trying a variety of brands. As a result, I blame this bar for my newfound love of Japanese whiskey.

Voted the best cocktail bar in Asia. They have no menu. Instead, tell the bartender what you like, and they’ll mix you up something amazing. This bar only seats around a dozen people, so get there early if you want to grab a seat.

A bustling fish restaurant run by British expat Andy, set under the arches of Yūrakuchō Station. If you’re looking for an easily accessible (due to the English language menus) izakaya, this is a great place to drink beer and eat seafood with your colleagues after work.

A nice place to grab a western style breakfast. This is especially true if you’re up early due to jetlag, as it opens at 8:30am rather than the more common 10am or 11am most other brunch places favour. Just get there early as the queues can get crazy, especially at the weekend.

This Japanese branch of the ever popular New York eatery, does killer blueberry pancakes. Having eaten in both, I think the Tokyo outlet is better than the original. Another place that opens early(ish).

A 1-Michelin star tempura restaurant, and regarded as one of the best of its kind by those in the know.

The world's first Michelin star Ramen restaurant, and one of the cheapest starred restaurants you’ll find.  You’ll need to start queuing at 7am if you want to get a ticket for dinner.

A French, Japanese fusion restaurant with three Michelin stars to its name. The ambiance is refined, the food is delicious, and the service is faultless. No wonder it’s ranked one of the top 100 restaurants in the world. I’ve been here twice and wouldn’t hesitate going back a third time.

A lovely looking cafe, nestled inside a flower shop. Expect long queues of ladies who lunch. We waited 45 minutes for a seat last time, which sounds extreme, but is pretty standard for Tokyo.

Beams is a well known Japanese fashion brand, offering a mix of cool streetwear, high end brands and homewares. It’s right next to Nakajima, so one of you should check this place out while the other is holding your spot in the line. 

A friend of mine who works in high end digital fashion retail tipped me off about the Blue Blue brand. If you like raw denim and everything indigo, this is a good place to start. I ended up buying a really nice chore jacket from here on my last trip, so I finally look like the designer I was born to be! If you’re in a denim mood, also check out Momotaro Jeans, Kapital Ebisu and Okura Clothing.

Japan has a strong bakery game, and this is one of the best. You may have to queue for over an hour to grab a table for breakfast or lunch. Alternatively use the side entrance to skip the queues and grab take-away. Just remember that it’s not the done thing to eat on the street in Japan, so you may have to take your food to a nearby park or back to your hotel to eat.

Very similar to the UK outpost, this multi-floor designer store has a tonne of great brands, along with a seriously nice cafe and bakery on the top floor. Remember to bring your passport to get your tax back.

This outpost of Tsutaya books is just amazing. In fact it’s regarded by many as the best book shop in the world, so definitely worth checking out if you’re in the area. I also recommend the Ivy Place restaurant next door for breakfast. Both open at 7am, so are perfect if you’re awake super early thanks to the jet-lag.

A guide to popular culture in Japan written by a European tech worker who moved to Tokyo in 2004. It helps explain some common cultural norms which might be hidden to casual visitors. It also gives a nice overview of local business culture.

This is a great book for anybody interested in Urbanism and why Tokyo feels different to most other large cities. It looks at 5 key neighbourhood types—Yokocho alleyways, Zakkyo buildings, undertrack infills, Ankyo streets and dense low-rise neighbourhoods—and explores the history of how they developed, and how they contribute to the unique feel of Tokyo.

This short but well written history book describes the rise of modern Japan, from the arrival of Commodore Perry (1853) and the end of the Shogunate, through the heady pre-war era, to the eve of the Tokyo Olympics. If you want to get an insight into the country's psyche and how it got to where it is today, I can;lt think of a better book. 

A nice, well designed city guide with good recommendations for bars, restaurants, art museums etc, if you run out of things to do from the above list.

This book is the memoirs of the only Western journalist to work at a major Japanese newspaper. It’s set in the late 90s and early naughties, and looks at the ins and outs of the Japanese sex trade and the involvement of Yakuzza. It’s an interesting and well paced read which has recently been turned into a TV series, although I do worry about the moral compass of the author, who takes a bit too much glee describing all the dodgy stuff he got up to. Then again I guess “if you lie with the dogs, you’re gonna catch fleas”.